Records of a journey in 1990
War & Peace in Kalinga
Journey 1 - Gang-gang's Palpaliwat
Journey 2 - Tanudan
Journey 3 - Gold & NPAs
Songs & Stories
Image Gallery
Common Page

This website is a record of the months that I spent with the Kalinga peoples of Northern Luzon in the Philippines during 1990. It contains photographs, songs, transcripts, diaries and an account of the turbulent politics of the province at that time.

I'm putting this material on the web because much of Kalinga was seldom visited by outsiders at that time. It feels as if my record of my time there should do more than sit in a box in the attic.
I hope it will be of interest to others - people thinking of travelling in Kalinga or studying this extra-ordinary place, my friends and Kalinga people themselves.

It is a personal account, reflecting the thoughts of a 28 year old Englishman who ventured off the back-packing trail and had an adventure. Not all the information on this website will be correct. Some of my accounts and interpretations of Kalinga customs and politics are bound to be wrong. I am not and never was an anthropologist, journalist, writer or even a spy. I was a traveller who ran out of excuses for being on holiday and thought he might write a book.

But as Gang-gang, a Kalinga Warrior, put it in an ulallim he once chanted while we sheltered in a cave waiting for a storm to blow itself out "You came here in order that you should know what is happening in Kalinga. And mabye when you go to your place you can write it in a book, so that the generation will know the happenings here in the Cordillera."

The book never got written. This is my record of those happenings. 

A good place to start, which may help make sense of some of the stuff on this site, is the short minute 'movie', which you can open by
clicking here .

Ben Neild


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